Catastrophic Z / Bed Destruction still happens in 1.4.5


Well ; I just had my Mooz destroy my Heated print bed.

I had recently done a 3 point re-level; and due to the machine not responding over serial 3 out of 10 reboots tried quickly on/off/on/off in a row.

Eventually I got the machine to come back over serial.

But I should have been more weary; looking through the logs I see a ‘Loading Hardcoded defaults’ in the EEPRom messages logged to octoprint. I am guessing the quick sequence of off/on’s triggered a firmware reset.

Suffice to say the result of the print following that sent the hotend way bellow the Z 0 point ; and I am left with an unusable heated bed.

New photo by Joel Wirāmu Pauling

This comes after fixing my feeder stepper motor which failed within a couple of weeks, and the constantly buggy firmware.


I feel your pain, and sorry this happened.

The “good” news is this only ruined one area of the print bed. Mine did that before my first print (remember the old “reset zero point on startup” issue before the firmware got updated?), and I’ve been able to use it pretty well. If anything prints on that spot, it certainly creates issues on the bottom, but I haven’t had trouble with lack of adhesion or other issues.

Did you already use the replacement pad that came with the printer? I think I also saw a post that you can buy whatever that material is on Amazon and just cut a new pad - the heated bed should still work, you just have a crummy surface to print on in that one spot, right?

(Yes, I know you’re a bit of a pro and know this already - just trying to see if I’m missing something and maybe commiserate a little. :slight_smile:


Not really - you see all the travel moves all over the rest of the plate… the Z has a tendency to reset itself whenever there is any offset commands. And heaven help you if you try and drive it with Serial ; i.e octoprint etc.

I bought the mooz to do little prints. But due to bed levelling being pretty much useless and how much wobble the unit creates (i.e tolerances are pretty terrible for what it looks like it should be); only larger prints and then only when carefully crafted to deal with the layer 0-10 issues, are actually of much success.

Am currently looking at replacing the controller board as my attempts to even build off the provided sources have been in vain (they used the keil mdk toolchain and butchered the usefullnes of the original marlin sources with used gcc-arm). They haven’t documented anything much about the board itself, and it is lacking the stlink header where it would normally be so it’s basically a gigantic dog.

Tbh most off the 200$ belt driven reprap knockoffs do a WAY better job (and faster) than the mooz does