I’ve tried various skirt/brim/raft settings. 3/5 print jobs fail due to globing right after putting the raft down and/or Moving the Filament around/detaching from bed.
I’ve tried bed heat as high as 80.
Is this a leveling issue with the bed ? Or something else?
PLA or PETG?
I’ve found an initial layer speed of 30 ensures great bed adhesion for both filaments. I use a bed of 70 initially.
With PETG it just doesn’t like going much faster than 30. Walls seem to be okay generally but infill just causes a guaranteed fail above 30.
If you’re using a raft, I’ve noticed that the first layer after the raft doesn’t lay down properly and you get a wave-like ripple surface which the print head then scrapes against on the next layer.
If I have a raft, I do the first several layers slow without the fan so that the first couple of layers after the raft are slow prints.
This removes any issues I’ve had with any initial printing and bed adhesion. Last print I had was near impossible to remove from the bed.
I heated my bed up to 80/90 and the sticking issues went away (PLA 1.75mm) - I am guessing that the Thermistor in the bed is likely 5-10degC off reported as I had no luck at 60 or 70 Deg.
Depends what other settings such as speed you use and extruder temp.
Even initial layer height plays it’s part
I am fairly certain this is to do with my bed leveling issue at this point, and that the PLA provided is really stringy ; regardless of spending hours trying to find a good retraction setting.
Leveling is definitely off see : https://photos.app.goo.gl/BNgFHDDEnvvCxwgm1
I’m having very similar problems, which really seem to come from that critical first layer.
In my case, the culprit seems to be the initial pre-extrusion that the Mooz puts out to get material flowing before it begins laying down the Skirt. (I’m using Cura as my slicer.)
I had also put masking tape over the bed, after seeing one of the Mooz unboxing videos - I figured if the ‘pro’ in the video did it, there must be something to it. Then I thought “Yeah, and he probably increased the heat of the bed to account for the tape”, so in the end, took the tape off.
I’m really struggling here - I can print one small piece at a time - but anything more complicated is a blobby mess.
Has anyone found settings that consistently work?
One thing I tried as well was to slow down the initial layer to 15mm/s. So far, that and removing the tape seems to be yielding a good print. Maybe one of those two was the problem?
Should I not be using Cura?
Other thoughts?
Thanks!
As mentioned previous - heat to about 10deg higher than normal (65-70) for PLA.
Also adding the following gcode to the end of the start sequence can help
I still have issues tho; but this increases successrate. Right now I have a new problem where the feeder motor has stopped gripping filament…
G1 Y10 ; move Y-Axis (bed) 10mm to prep for purge
G1 X120 E12 F600 ; move X-carriage 12mm while purging 12mm of filament
Thanks - this has worked like a charm! Three prints in a row clean, no babysitting needed.
How do you go about changing the temperature of the heated bed? I’m printing of an SD card
When you slice a 3d model, such as in Cura, there are settings for the heated bed.
You may have to go into advanced printer setting and enable the various advanced settings hidden in Cura by default. The main ones are initial print bed temperature and the general bed temperature for the rest of the print.
You cant change the bed temperature on a file already encoded with bed temepratures within mooz. You can find the relavent code if you open the file in a text editor and then change the value, but beyond that, there is no means
You can also set it as the default for the Material:
In Cura -> Settings -> Materials -> Manage Materials
Then look for the current material (probably under “Generic”, look for “PLA”) - it’s whatever is in italics.
Click on the selected material, then Duplicate it and call it “PLA Warm” or “PLA Custom” or “My PLA” or whatever you want. Under Print Settings, change the bed temp to 70 or 75 or whatever.
If you don’t want to do it that way, in Cura, on the right under Print Setup, click “Custom”.
Then, mouse over the Material heading, and click the Settings gear.
Check the box next to “Build Plate Temperature”, then Close.
You can now set the build plate temperature setting on the right side of the screen.
Note that it WILL retain this between sessions of Cura, so you should only have to set it once - but if you only want to use it once, you’ll have to remember to set it back.
Im using cura and found the settings, thanks for the info.
What are people using as the temp on the bed? What are people using for “sitcky” eg: gluestick/painters tape/nothing/etc? I’ve tried blue painters tape, and on anther print gluestick, as well as nothing and all of my prints keep lifting and getting stuck to the printer head thus ruining the print.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
220 extruder, 70 bed, 30mm print speed for first layer, direct to bed and no problems providing you either pull the initial extrusion away or add start Gcode to move it off onto the side.
If using a raft I increase initial print layers to account for entire raft and first layer of model as for me, the first layer of model warps.
Also ensuring print head is correct hight. I personally don’t like the paper test as I don’t think it’s that accurate. I use a back light to tell when the nozzle has touched the bed and do two 0.1 increments up and haven’t had a problem yet.